Rachel, Nevada

The Black Mailbox

From a distance Rachel looks like any other small desert town - a collection of house trailers scattered across a few dozen acres of dry land with a sprinkling of green where the residents have taken the time to plant trees and shrubs and keep them watered with that most precious commodity in the desert.

Little suggests that behind this sleepy facade hides the "UFO Capitol of the World". Although the Area 51 Research Center is no longer there, the UFO legends are alive and well at the Little A' Le' Inn.

But first things first. As you enter Rachel from the south the first business establishment it the Quik Pik store. It used to be a good place to get groceries, snacks, souvenirs and gas but since a change of ownership in 2006 the store has been closed.

Across the side street and two doors northwest is the site of the former Area 51 Research Center. It's a private home now. Please don't disturb the residents. The Center was started by Glenn Campbell, a Boston area native, in late 1993. He had moved to Rachel in 1992, first working out of the Little Al'Le'Inn before opening his own store. Campbell later moved to Las Vegas, leaving the management of the store to locals and others. Unfortunately things didn't work out and in 2002 the center was closed for good. I was sorry to see that happen. The center offered different view of Area 51, focusing more on the military activities. It complimented the Little Al'Le'Inn, where the UFO aspects of the area are featured.

Located in the opposite end of town, the Little A' Le' Inn was purchased by Joe and Pat Travis in 1988. A combination restaurant, bar, UFO museum and gift shop, it's the only place for a meal within 50 miles. The food is good; I've eaten here many times. The first time I tried the Alien Burger, actually a hamburger on a French roll, and was pleasantly surprised. The business, under other names, has been through numerous owners since it started in 1977 but the Travis's have managed to keep it going longer than anyone else. Sadly, Joe Travis died in September of 2003 after a long illness. But Pat, with help from family and friends, is still keeping it running.

Signs at the border

The walls of the Inn are covered with pictures of UFO's, Aliens, and Area 51. There even are posters and photos of Bob Lazar, a Las Vegas resident who claims to have worked for the Navy, attempting to "reverse-engineer" alien spacecraft in a super secret facility at Papoose Lake, a dry lake bed south of Area 51. Most of the Area 51 photos were taken by Jim Goodall and Chuck Clark from vantage points on Freedom Ridge and Whitesides Mountain, which were open to the public until early 1995. These are the best recent photos of the base that I've seen. Photographic prints of some are for sale, and while not cheap, they are reasonable for actual photographs. Also for sale are the usual T-shirts, caps and Alien/UFO/Area 51 souvenirs. If you can't visit Rachel, it's also available on the official Little A'le'inn Website.

Cammo Dudes

Just outside the Inn is the ID4 marker. It was placed here by the producers of the 1996 movie, "Independence Day" which was set in Area 51. The film was shot in Utah. Studio executives, members of the cast and dignitaries from the state of Nevada were among those who came to Rachel for the unveiling of the marker and ceremony naming Highway 375 as the "Extraterrestrial Highway".

It's hard to write about Rachel and the UFO/Area 51 phenomenon and remain serious, but for a moment I must. After visiting the town and the surrounding area I grew to really like this place. The people are friendly and honest. I was particularly impressed in 2003 when the residents held a charity auction to help Pat Travis pay the medical bills after Joe's death. It seemed the whole town turned out and both contributed items to be auctioned and then bid on those their neighbors contributed. It was a wonderful example of what's great about small towns.

There's a lot more to see in this area, especially if you like the desert and exploring places that are off the usual tourist track. I've included a few in the list below. Some Web pages were written by myself, some by others.

  Basecamp Airfield, built by the AEC but supposedly closed.
Cedar Pipeline Ranch, now abandoned.
Leviathan Cave, a strenuous hike for the physically fit.
Tybo, Nevada Ghost Town, once a prosperous mining community.

Email Dave Bethke
on the fringe of Houston
updated 10/05/07